Venturing into the World's Most Haunted Woodland: Contorted Trees, UFOs and Spooky Stories in Romania's Legendary Region.
"People refer to this place the Bermuda Triangle of Transylvania," states an experienced guide, his exhalation producing wisps of vapor in the cold evening air. "So many people have vanished here, some say it's an entrance to a parallel world." This expert is leading a traveler on a night walk through frequently labeled as the world's most haunted woodland: Hoia-Baciu, a section spanning 640 acres of primeval indigenous forest on the edges of the Romanian city of Cluj-Napoca.
Hundreds of Years of Enigma
Accounts of unusual events here extend back centuries – this woodland is named after a regional herder who is believed to have disappeared in the long ago, together with 200 of his sheep. But Hoia-Baciu came to international attention in 1968, when a defense worker known as Emil Barnea captured on film what he claimed was a flying saucer floating above a round opening in the centre of the forest.
Countless ventured inside and never came out. But no need to fear," he adds, facing the visitor with a grin. "Our excursions have a 100% return rate."
In the years that followed, Hoia-Baciu has attracted meditation experts, spiritual healers, UFO researchers and paranormal investigators from worldwide, curious to experience the unusual forces said to echo through the forest.
Modern Threats
Despite being among the planet's leading hotspots for lovers of the paranormal, the grove is facing danger. The western suburbs of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of a population exceeding 400,000, called the tech capital of the region – are expanding, and real estate firms are advocating for approval to cut down the woods to build apartment blocks.
Barring a limited section housing locally rare oak varieties, the forest is lacking legal protection, but Marius is confident that the company he was instrumental in creating – a dedicated preservation group – will contribute to improving the situation, encouraging the authorities to recognise the forest's value as a travel hotspot.
Spooky Experiences
While branches and fall foliage snap and crunch beneath their footwear, the guide recounts numerous traditional stories and claimed ghostly incidents here.
- A popular tale recounts a young child vanishing during a group gathering, only to rematerialise half a decade later with no memory of her experience, having not aged a moment, her clothes lacking the slightest speck of dust.
- Regular stories describe cellphones and camera equipment inexplicably shutting down on entering the woods.
- Emotional responses vary from absolute fear to feelings of joy.
- Certain individuals claim observing unusual marks on their skin, detecting ghostly voices through the woodland, or feel palms pushing them, despite being certain nobody is nearby.
Study Attempts
While many of the stories may be unverifiable, there are many things clearly observable that is definitely bizarre. Everywhere you look are plants whose stems are bent and twisted into unusual forms.
Various suggestions have been given to clarify the abnormal growth: powerful storms could have shaped the young trees, or naturally high radiation levels in the ground account for their unusual development.
But formal examinations have discovered insufficient proof.
The Notorious Meadow
Marius's tours allow guests to take part in a modest investigation of their own. Upon reaching the opening in the woods where Barnea captured his renowned UFO photographs, he hands his guest an electromagnetic field detector which registers electromagnetic fields.
"We're stepping into the most active section of the forest," he states. "Discover what's here."
The plants immediately cease as we emerge into a flawless round. The single plant life is the low vegetation beneath their shoes; it's apparent that it hasn't been mown, and appears that this strange clearing is organic, not the work of human hands.
Fact Versus Fiction
Transylvania generally is a place which stirs the imagination, where the division is unclear between fact and folklore. In countryside villages superstition remains in strigoi ("screamers") – otherworldly, shapeshifting vampires, who return from burial sites to frighten local communities.
The famous author's famous fictional vampire is permanently linked with Transylvania, and Bran Castle – a medieval building situated on a rocky outcrop in the Carpathian Mountains – is actively advertised as "the count's residence".
But including myth-shrouded Transylvania – literally, "the land past the woods" – seems tangible and comprehensible versus the haunted grove, which seem to be, for factors related to radiation, environmental or purely mythical, a nexus for fantasy projection.
"Inside these woods," Marius comments, "the boundary between fact and fiction is remarkably blurred."